Matrix fashion is a hit again and the answer to the desperate state of the world today, thinks costume designer
The Matrix as fashion inspiration?
The Wachowski siblings' series has undoubtedly become iconic, not only for its content, but also for its visual language. Just saying the word "Matrix" immediately brings to mind the central trio and the long trench coats, patent leather, combat boots and, of course, the tiny dark glasses. But it seems that even many years later, this fashion from the post-apocalyptic movie reality still survives and has inspired countless celebrities. Why is it that "Matrix fashion" seems to have become a timeless trend?
Although all the designs for the Matrix were created during the 1990s, as designer Kym Barret acknowledges today, they have outlived their time. Whether it was the aforementioned tiny sunglasses or the long dark coats, all of these have virtually disappeared in fashion and have survived to this day. Perhaps because the designs from Barret were truly timeless. "All the silhouettes had to be easily recognizable so that the viewer could tell who was who even in the dark. I was always also guided by the individual characters when designing, for example Trinity wanted to move through the world of the Matrix very skillfully, which is why she wore shiny dresses. But her costumes also had to be fitted so they didn't hinder her movement," says the designer.
The dominant costume, which Keanu Reeves (Neo) appeared in, was a coat, which was inspired by old Chinese robes and religious garments. The leather (synthetic) from which the coat was made had to be specially treated to look like crocodile skin. Similarly, the glasses, which have become truly iconic (and were the ones Bella Hadid appeared in public with last year, for example), were then handmade by designer Richard Walker.
Matrix à la fashion style
The first signs that the Matrix aesthetic is making a comeback can be seen as early as autumn 2017, when Matrix elements appeared in Balenciaga's collection. Long leather coats subsequently dominated the Balmain and Alexander McQueen collections. Futurism was also evident in Alexander Wang's designs in 2018, and when leather dresses accompanied by tiny round glasses finally appeared on the catwalks in Paris, it was clear that the Matrix was back. Designer Kym Barrett herself was initially surprised by this fashion return. "I was trying to tell a story about what it would be like to live in that elusive world. I never had a clear idea of what it would look like in the future, but I wanted to make it seem like it was a world of greater possibilities...and we're living in that world right now," she said two decades since the first Matrix episode was released.
The apocalypse is at hand
But Kym Barret is also somewhat clear that this fashionable Matrix comeback says something about today's society (and not just that it is undoubtedly full of many possibilities that were unimaginable just 20 years ago). Indeed, the designer herself had to use her creativity to create the costumes, for which she did not have a huge budget, and she had to adapt and recycle many materials. "I think the reason people are now turning back to the Matrix and this movie fashion is because the world is in a desperate situation, just like it was in the movie. Even in it there was a scarcity of resources, when someone died, others took their clothes and turned them into something else. It's actually the same thing that's happening today - there's a growing emphasis on recycling clothes and thrift shopping. There is no room for ostentation in the world or in fashion," he sums up.
In the context of the Matrix, there are many more parallels with today's reality. When the first part of the trilogy appeared on cinema screens, no one specifically named what was happening in the film, but the practice of people trying to get rich at the expense of natural wealth is now also obvious. According to some, the chaos of the film has then spilled over into our world. It's as if the matrix catastrophe is just around the corner. And if, perhaps, long coats and spectacles draw even a little attention to these themes, then why not. Dark coats are actually pretty cool.
