To the sacred rock and the most preserved town: how we discovered the beauty of Gran Canaria without rushing
First stop: a rich breakfast
The Lopesan family hotels are known for their renowned cuisine, so everyone is clear - first we're going to indulge in a sumptuous breakfast, which we're certainly not going to rush. We settle down on the pleasant outdoor terrace and bring ourselves one delicacy after another. Eggs Benedict, toast with salmon and avocado, scrambled eggs with bacon and beans, omelettes, pancakes, churros... Everyone will find their favourite breakfast at the five-star Villa del Conde, and we are proof of that. Whether you love sweet or savoury breakfasts, there's something for everyone in the buffet and we've particularly loved the fresh juices and the wide selection of fruit and vegetables. There's simply no rush here, as you'll always discover something you still want to try. And so we inspire each other to taste more and more...
Stop two: fabulous views
And in the same vein as the breakfast together, the whole day actually takes place. We're in no hurry, so we may not be able to visit much, but we enjoy each place all the more. And so even the first stop is not just to jump out of the car, snap a few photos and quickly move on. The Mirador Astronómico de la Degollada de las Yeguas is the first viewpoint on the road leading inland from the luxury resort of Meloneras. The twelve kilometres from the Villa del Conde Hotel to the viewpoint takes us almost half an hour -climbing up steep hills and passing cyclists who test their fitness with long climbs in Gran Canaria and are rewarded with spectacular descents with spectacular views of the ocean and mountains.
The Mirador Astronómico de la Degollada de las Yeguas viewpoint offers a breathtaking view of the Barranco de Guayedra valley on one side and the ocean on the other, and you can also catch a glimpse of the famous sand dunes of Dunas de Maspalomas. During the day, the viewpoint is the place to dreamily observe the surrounding landscape, but it's also alive at night. In fact, it's a popular spot for stargazing: far enough away from the light smog, yet close enough from the hotels on the coast. If you like to observe the stars and constellations, whether you're an experienced astronomer or a beginner, this is the perfect place for night sky viewing and astrophotography, according to the locals. We're here in the morning, so maybe next time...
Stop three: the sacred site of the Guanches, where the view is spectacular
Our second stop is not so relaxing. From the roadside parking lot we head to the Roque Nublo rock formation. We have about one and a half kilometres of (mostly) climbing ahead of us. At 1,813 metres above sea level, Roque Nublo is the third highest point on the island and, thanks to its unusual shape, one of its symbols. While in ancient times it was revered by the island's indigenous Guanche people, today it is the site of crowds of tourists. Roque Nublo is sometimes called Cloud Rock because it is often hidden in the clouds, but we are lucky. There are only a few clouds in the sky and nothing to spoil our view of this landmark. Even the crowds of tourists aren't a problem, as we head here at lunchtime.
On the way we enjoy the views of the massif of central Gran CanariaPhoto: Kateřina Kučerová
The reward for the short, albeit quite steep for the distance, climb is a fascinating view of the mountain range of central Gran Canaria and the 67 metre high volcanic rock itself. Shortly after the mountain saddle at Roque de San José, after 45 minutes of walking, we are captivated by the view of Roque Nublo. We continue no further, enjoying the sunshine and the truly spectacular views, before returning to the car park by the same route.
Stop four: afternoon siesta in Teror
The next stop on our itinerary is the town of Teror. It may only be less than thirty kilometres from the car park at Roque Nublo, but it's not a ride for the faint hearted who get sick of sharp bends or get out of breath on narrow roads with steep slopes below you. But it's a journey well worth taking. In fact, Teror is Gran Canaria's best-preserved town, boasting a typical Canarian architectural style.
Teror, our last stopPhoto: Kateřina Kučerová
The centrepiece of Teror is the Basilica de Nuestra Senora del Pino, dedicated to the island's patron saint, Our Lady of the Pines. Around the basilica runs Calle Real de la Plaza, a street lined with opulent houses with typical wooden balconies and where there are all sorts of shops and cafés. We reach the crossroads where the picturesque street ends, and settle down in a little café called Majocaya. It's a nice place with a few tables on the sidewalk, but it still cooks - and it's wonderful - in the late afternoon. And so we stave off hunger, chatting, and no one wants to go anywhere. But when it's dinner time, we have to get up and move on. We put off the other attractions we wanted to catch up on for another day and head back to the hotel, where we look forward to more goodies at the hotel's renowned Villa del Conde restaurant.
You might say we haven't seen enough. Yes, three places is not much. But taking our time, enjoying the present and not worrying, at least for a while, about what we want to get done is liberating. We had time to enjoy the atmosphere and mood of each place, to slow down. Gran Canaria has a lot to see, of course, and it may make some people rush, but we recommend picking just a few places and enjoying them to the fullest.