Land of kings, fairy-tale castles, deserts and fine wines - the overlooked Navarre will win you over
The history of Navarre, located in the north of Spain, can be summarised as one big theatre stage, where the centuries have changed like theatre sets. Unlike the more southerly regions, which were contested by the Romans, the Arabs and then the Christians, Navarre had its most interesting period in the Middle Ages, when it was a kingdom that was not afraid to stay its own course among its powerful neighbours. The kings of Navarre lived in palaces that mixed Romanesque masonry with Gothic windows, their courts filled with linguists, merchants and diplomats. Whether it was marriages, alliances or military clashes, Navarre has long maintained the face of an independent player who was not easily swallowed.
But then came the bigger powers, Castile, Aragon and France, who began to change the map in their own image. Part of Navarre was annexed to Spain, part to France, but the unruly foothill region still retained its own temperament. That's why you'll always have the feeling that history is not a closed chapter here, but a living story that is still unfolding - in the stone towns with their winding streets, in the vineyards and, above all, among the locals, who know very well that Navarre may be a small region in size, but in their hearts it is the most important!
The heritage of the Middle Ages
The centre of Navarre is its capital, Pamplona, which will win you over with its unpretentiousness. It is set on a fertile plain on the banks of the Arga River and, in addition to the river ribbon, it is interspersed with islands of green. Along the banks you'll find cycle paths, parks and various hidden spots for relaxing or picnicking. Pamplona is not the hectic, vibrant city, but rather a place that teaches you to slow down, breathe and feel the power of the moment. If you want to run through the city at a fast pace, you won't be able to do it. The café tables in the alleyways with historic facades are simply too tempting. And when you smell the aroma of freshly made pinchos (or pintxos), you won't be able to resist... And what are pinchos? Simply put, it's tapas on a stick, in short, an exotic and very tempting snack.
After a light but delicious snack, the streets lead you to the local cathedral where the kings of Navarre took their coronation oath. It is a Gothic gem with Romanesque foundations and a classical facade - the evolution of architecture in this area is as evident as any building. Even if you don't want to spend too much time admiring the monumental Gothic structure, at least take a look at the adjacent cloister. Its Gothic arches resemble stone lace and clearly demonstrate the importance of the building in the Middle Ages.
We'll stick to monumental architecture for a while. But from Pamplona we move on to the town of Olite. Its main landmark is the royal castle surrounded by noble houses decorated with the coats of arms of important families. All this shows the importance that the town has had in the past. Thanks to the economic prosperity of Navarre, the royal castle in Olite is said to be the most luxurious medieval building in Europe, decorated by the best builders and artists. The towers, galleries, courtyards and gardens still captivate visitors today. You can also stay in the castle! Its old wing now serves as a parador - a luxury hotel in a historic building. You can experience the fairytale life of the kings for yourself. But if a visit is all you need, don't despair. The new wing of the royal palace is also open to the general public.
Natural treasures (in a barrel)
The diversity of Navarre's natural scenery means that you can go from medieval green towns to places that seem more like they belong on the planet Mars in no time. The semi-desert of the Bárdenas Reales, with its rock formations in the form of spires, towers and table mountains, is truly otherworldly. The further you venture into the centre of the semi-desert, the more incredible it will seem. The whole area can be explored either by car on the two main routes that lead from the town of Carcastillo through El Paso. However, don't rent a low-riding sports or city car for this trip - the roads are more for farmers. There are also trails through the semi-desert for cyclists or walkers, and there are shorter walking circuits. However, it is essential that you stick to the marked paths. For your own sake and to protect this unique area.
It's only natural that you'll be properly parched after a visit to the desert, or semi-desert. So you can moisten your mouth with the right Navarrese wine. It does take a bit of a back seat to the more famous Rioja wines, but that's more for marketing reasons. Even Navarrese wines are of high quality and in demand among connoisseurs! In the local vineyards, Atlantic, continental and Mediterranean climatic influences blend in perfect harmony, which is particularly beneficial for rosé wines. Although white and red wines are also commonly produced here, since the 20th century local winemakers have concentrated mainly on rosé, which has achieved world renown. So if you're also a fan of wine tourism, Navarre shouldn't be missing from your radar.
Navarre can be reached from Prague by air with a change in Madrid, or you can combine a flight to Madrid with a train ride to Pamplona, or a flight to Bilbao or Biarritz with a bus to Pamplona. In neither case is it a short trip, but if you combine it with a visit to one of the above-mentioned transfer destinations, you won't regret it. We recommend renting a car to get around the Navarra area. Navarra is waiting for you!
Photo: Oficina Española de Turismo ve Vídni
