Valencia: the city of traditions, the Holy Grail, Michelin stars and a treacherous drink
The origins of Valencia, a Spanish city on the Costa del Azahar, date back very specifically to 138 BC, when the Romans founded the colony of Valentia Edetanorum. The story that follows is somewhat copied from other Spanish coastal areas. After the Romans came the Arabs in the eighth century, who were displaced for more than five hundred years by the Christians led by James I. Aragon. Today, Valencia is the capital of the Spanish Autonomous Community of Valencia. As it happens, its dramatic history has resulted in a rich heritage that combines elements of many cultures.
The Holy Grail and the Gothic Gates
The different stages of Valencia's development are particularly evident in the historic centre in the form of the remains of the fortifications. But you must have a keen eye! There are only a few places where you can find traces of Roman walls, but the Arab walls were already higher and more solid, so you can see their remains even among the houses. Some of the old inhabitants even complain that they can't even hang a picture on some of the walls in their houses, because they have honest stone walls that are over a thousand years old under the plaster. The Christian walls were then torn down in the 19th century so as not to impede the growth of the city. Yet there are still two magnificent gothic gateways standing. Torres de Serranos is one of them - it's an impressive Gothic gateway with two towers and galleries, from which you can see the city for two euros. The stairs are a bit more challenging, but worth the view!
From the gate, it's just a short walk to the Valencian Cathedral, which is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was first consecrated in 1238. The monumental building, known locally as la Seu, is unique not only for its age but also for its windows above the crossing of the main aisles, which are "glazed" with alabaster panes. The sunlight thus reaches the centre of the cathedral in a soft, diffused, almost mystical glow. It is also fascinating to find altarpieces by Francisco de Goya in the cathedral. The real treasure, however, is the agate chalice clasped by two golden arms. The chalice itself is old enough to be the legendary Holy Grail from which the Apostles drank at the Last Supper.
The burnt milk and the treacherous drink
Around the corner, maybe two, from the cathedral you will also find the Gothic stock exchange, where silk was traded in the Middle Ages. Again, the Llotja de la Seda building can be reached for two euros and you shouldn't miss a visit! The central hall with its vaulted ceilings and tessellated columns will delight you, as will the peaceful courtyard with its orange trees. However, if you choose to admire the building only from the outside, be sure to take a close look at the sculptural decoration on the main gate. The figures were meant to warn against earthly sins, so you won't find, among other things, a figure of a man performing intimacies with a tree trunk. If it rains, beware of the gargoyles above you - the one on the corner does not spout water from its mouth, as is common, but from other places. From where? You'll have to find out for yourself. I'm ashamed to write it.
Valencia's trade relations were not only strong in the Middle Ages. That's why you'll find several Art Nouveau marketplaces. Off to the side of the historic centre is one called the Mercado de Colón. The imposing building with its steel structure and Art Nouveau tiles now mainly hosts bistros and restaurants and is therefore a popular meeting place. In the basement, you'll find the Habitual restaurant by two Michelin-starred chef Ricardo Camarena. Here they serve Valencian specialities in an unusual guise, such as Ensaladilla rusa, which is actually a variation on 'our' potato salad. Camarena serves it here with a foam of green olives. His must-try speciality is the burnt milk ice cream with coffee and butter notes. Personally, though, I'd make do with the local artisan bread, which I indulged in more than I'd ever admit.
A good dinner should then be washed down with a refreshing drink. The traditional one is Aqua de Valencia, which, as the name suggests, comes from here. Its base is a mixture of vodka, gin and sometimes sugar, which you top with fresh orange juice and finish with cava, a Spanish sparkling wine. The drink is incredibly refreshing and incredibly tricky! If you've ever been a victim of mimosa, then you'd better avoid it. But if you're not afraid, I can definitely recommend it. You can handle a glass or two, but I don't recommend a third.
I've tried the drink at four places, but the one I liked best was at Café de Las Horas, an eclectic place with crystal chandeliers, heavy curtains and painted walls. In this decadent establishment, you'll find regular tourists sitting next to elderly ladies and alternative queer artists. And everyone feels at home. The owner of the place originally wanted a bar for a few friends and now it's a place where there's a waiting list. Plus, you can buy that magical base mix of hard liquor to take home.
A few tips for the end
This time we mainly explored the old town together. So you'll have to wait until August to see the dystopian architecture of the City of Arts and Science, when we'll explore the unique riverbed, beaches and the popular party bohemian Russafa district together. Even so, I still have a few travel tips to share with you. The city is easily accessible by air directly from Prague. The flight takes less than three hours and the local airport is not far from the centre - a taxi will get you there in 20 minutes in good traffic.
You can easily get around the city on a rented bike. The local network of cycle paths is very extensive and drivers are used to cyclists. If you prefer taxis, download the Freenow app. You won't catch a taxi on the street without it. At night, I recommend ordering a car in advance, otherwise you'll be waiting. The buses, metro and trams here also work great, so there are plenty of options!
The most important thing at the end! Never, but really never, taste the oranges from the ubiquitous orange trees in the local parks. Apart from the fact that they are supposedly not good at all, you risk becoming the laughing stock of the locals. On the contrary, notice for yourself how others taste them and their faces contort - it's quite fun.
Thanks to Oficina Española de Turismo in Vienna for the trip to ValenciaPhoto: Oficina Española de Turismo ve Vídni
