Fragrant apple drinks, architectural gems and the Queen of Spain - all await you in the Principality of Asturias!
Thousands of years before the Asturian kings and princes, Asturias was conquered by prehistoric inhabitants who liked the local climate shaped by the Gulf Stream and the Cantabrian mountain range, along the length of which several national parks are spread. The warm air from the Bay of Biscay, combined with the mountains, provides ample moisture and mild temperatures, making Asturias a fertile place to live since prehistoric times. This is reflected not only in the rich history of the area, but also in the diversity of the local flora and fauna.
Despite its favourable location, it was for a long time a rather poor region, but this has paradoxically benefited it. While the rest of the Iberian Peninsula was the scene of power struggles between the Moors and the Christians, the area where the regional capital of Oviedo now stands was uninhabited and thus of little interest to the Muslim conquerors. The situation changed only after 761, when two monks, Máximo and Fromestano, founded the first settlement on a green field, which began to prosper. Along with the area, the Kingdom of Asturias developed, and its rulers ensured a building boom. They chose Oviedo as their seat and in 781 the Cathedral of Saint Salvator was founded. Its late fourteenth-century successor, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, still attracts visitors today.
Oscar-winning cities of contrasts
Oviedo, however, continues to be a major influence on Spanish culture today. Thanks to its beauty, director Woody Allen chose it as the backdrop for his film Viki Cristina Barcelona. And it paid off! Spanish star Penélope Cruz won an Oscar for her supporting role. The Asturian capital was undoubtedly to blame. Another interesting fact about the city is that the wife of the current Spanish monarch, Queen Letizia, was born here. And the heir to the throne, the infanta Leonor, bears the title of Princess of Asturias, which traditionally belongs to the heirs to the Spanish throne. This, by the way, is to make it clear how important Asturias is to the kingdom!
Despite the fact that the capital of Asturias is Oviedo, famous for its magical streets and monuments on every corner, the city of Gijón has achieved greater importance. This city on the coast of the Bay of Biscay combines the charm of an old port with modern cultural and artistic centres. You'll find, for example, the stunning cultural centre La Laboral, or the old fishing district of Cimadevilla, with its old houses on a winding street grid, surrounded on one side by Roman ruins and medieval fortifications and dominated on the other by the Elogio del Horizonte. It is a fascinating concrete sculpture by Eduardo Chillida standing in the park on a rocky promontory. From every angle it looks completely different, but always as a fascinating and unexpected revelation.
Gijón too has earned its Oscar - brought to it by Asturian-born José Luis Garci, who set the action of his film Volver a empezar in the city. When you get tired of exploring Gijón's cinematic nooks and crannies, you should head to San Lorenzo Beach. It's almost two kilometres long, sandy and lined with a beautiful promenade. Another beach is Poniente, which is perfect for sunbathing and water sports. In addition, there is also a marine aquarium and a thalassotherapy centre. If you don't know what this is, it is a therapy that works with seawater, which has beneficial health effects thanks to its high salt and mineral content.
A slightly different Oscar and the speedboats
The last city we're going to invite you to also has something to do with Oscar. It is Avilés, whose historic streets and alleys are literally lined with churches, palaces, fountains and gardens. It's said that you won't find a more well-preserved historic district in northern Spain than the one in Avilés. That's why the cultural centre designed by the Brazilian architectural genius Oscar Neimeyer, who was inspired by the city's approach to innovation and the industrial revolution, is a revelation.
All of the cities mentioned have one thing in common, which you will appreciate if you like to travel without commitment. They are easily accessible by train. In addition, Gijón and Oviedo can be reached by high-speed train directly from Madrid. But you can also use the Spanish train network to travel around the Asturian countryside, which has become a popular destination for local and international tourists in recent years. And if you like to indulge in local drinks while you travel, you'll certainly need trains in Asturias. After all, the Sidra can go to your head.
A drink with the scent of apples and vanilla
This fermented apple drink, better known as cider in this country, certainly needs no introduction. In Spain, however, it's called cider and it's a drink that's in a much higher league than the one you know from the corner pub. Unlike the more commonly available ones, local cider is almost carbon dioxide-free - so don't expect bubbles in it. That's why it's poured in a completely unique way. It's poured from a height so that when it hits the glass, it becomes oxygenated and frothy. It is then drunk immediately so that the foam does not dissipate. Thanks to the aeration, the drink develops its aroma, which includes the scent of green apples, vanilla, plum and honey.
The drink is produced in what the locals call sidrerías. The best of these are associated with the prestigious designation of Sidrerías de Asturias, which is a guarantee of quality. Only here is the drink produced and served as it deserves. Sidrerías are also a place where Asturian traditions and values are upheld, special songs are sung just for sipping cider and authentic Asturian delicacies are served, from cheese, fish and seafood to cachopa - a fried pocket of veal stuffed with cheese and ham, but also peppers or mushrooms.
That said, Asturias is easily reached by high-speed trains direct from Madrid. You shouldn't turn around though, lest someone eat your cachopa and drink your cider!
Photo: Oficina Española de Turismo ve Vídni
