Get to know a country where penises are literally lurking at every turn. What is the story behind this "phallic obsession"?
The phallus is one of the main symbols of the Vajrayana (Tantric) branch of Buddhism, which dominates the kingdom in the middle of the Himalayas. Perhaps it is also because its inhabitants live a truly self-contained life, isolated from the rest of the world - after all, there were no roads in the country until the 1960s and internet access was only introduced in 1999. That is why Bhutanese people live today as they have for centuries - they follow ancient traditions and pass on their faith and beliefs from generation to generation. So phallic symbols are really "just" a way of expressing faith - after all, the monk who gave birth to this quite incredible tradition routinely bestowed blessings through sex...
A very unconventional "religion"
While the average Central European will associate traditional religion with celibacy and a general reticence towards any form of intimacy, those who subscribe to Vajrayana teachings certainly don't hold back. Thus, for example, at many festivals, so-called ' atsaras'- masked entertainers who act as enlightened masters - perform with a large, handmade penis as a teaching tool, entertaining the crowds while imparting a piece of their wisdom.
But where did this fascination with phallic symbols and the associated worship of the penis come from in the first place? The whole story goes back to the 15th century, when an eccentric Tibetan saint, Lama Drukpa Kunley, arrived in the country and was known for his fondness for women and wine (indeed, his alleged statement that "the best wine lies at the bottom of the bucket, while happiness lies below the navel" is widely quoted ). According to some historical interpretations, this Tibetan monk shot an arrow from the region of Tibet to tell him where to go to spread his teachings. And the arrow landed in what is now Bhutan, near the site of the subsequently built Chimi Lakhhan temple, which was built in the lama's honour and is now also known as the so-called fertility temple. In fact, when the lama was searching for the place of the arrow's impact, according to legend, he came across a young girl who was very interested in his pious intention - and, delighted by her enthusiasm, he spent the night with her and "blessed" her with a child...
The Lama subsequently travelled throughout the kingdom and discovered how strict and orthodox the clergy there lived - so he decided to break the population away from conventional customs and norms and teach them the true teachings of the Buddha. His literally sexually charged ways were kinky to say the least - the lama produced some rather raunchy poetry, was known for his ticklish humour and also for preaching under the influence of alcohol, all of which he used to shock and challenge the establishment. No wonder, then, that this practice earned him the nickname Divine Madman. Incidentally, with his "burning bolt of wisdom" (yes, penis...), this lama is said to have killed demons and shown more than five thousand women that celibacy is not necessary to reach nirvana. And it was a certain sexual debauchery and phallic obsession that gave rise to the legend that painted erect penises on walls and hanging penises from rooftops can drive away evil spirits. This belief persists in the country to this day.
Fertility for everyone/everyone
The aforementioned fertility temple, of course, now also houses an ancient bow, arrows and a nearly 26-centimetre phallic totem made of ivory and wood - and every year countless childless couples from all over the world travel here to receive the blessing of the "divine lightning", i.e. the wooden phallic totem (but they are also blessed with another silver penis...). Inside the temple, there is even a picture book with pictures of visitors who then sent photos of their children born after visiting the temple (another tradition is very unconventional - some locals believe that if a woman is hit on the head with a penis - artificial, not their own, of course - a child will be born...).
Thus, penises have remained a part of Bhutanese culture even today. In central Bhutan, for example, it is common for a wooden phallus to be dipped into a glass before guests are offered drinks. But specific rituals are also associated with moving into a new home, for example, in which case people perform a very elaborate ritual of placing four phalluses on the eaves of the house, each facing a different direction. The lady of the house then leads a dance and singing troupe and they go around the house together three times. But the truth is that these cultural traditions are now more likely to be maintained in rural areas, and are gradually being abandoned by city dwellers. Nevertheless, phallic symbols are sacred in Bhutan as they represent a unique story with historical, cultural and spiritual significance for the people.