Dry or wet? And what is the stoneware good for? Men's grooming expert Michal Byrtus reveals his tricks for a perfect shave

How to shave properly?

Proper shaving starts with good skin and beard preparation. The ideal is to shave after a shower or at least wash your face with warm water. The warmth and moisture will soften the beard and open the pores, making shaving easier. Never dry shave with a conventional razor.

I always recommend using a good quality shaving cream or soap to create a layer that helps the razor "glide" better over your skin, protecting your skin from cuts and irritation. It's definitely worth investing in a shaving brush too, which will help create a rich lather and lift the beard away from the skin.

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Sources: Luxusní holení/se svolením

It's also important to shave with a sharp blade - a dull razor is more likely to pull the beard and irritate the skin. Shave in the direction of the beard growth, at least the first time you shave the area. Don't put too much pressure on the razor when shaving; let the blade do the work in a gentle gliding motion.

You can use one hand to stretch the skin at the shaving point to make the surface as smooth as possible. Shave in slow, short strokes, rinsing the razor continuously in warm water to prevent beard residue and lather from drying on it. If you need to shave the area more smoothly, reapply the foam and you can try a second stroke across the direction of growth, but only if your skin is not too sensitive. Remember, shaving takes its time - take your time and indulge in this little morning or evening ritual in peace.

What products to use to prevent skin irritation?

Choosing the right products before, during and after shaving is key to minimising irritation. First and foremost, it's a good idea to wash your skin before shaving. Clean skin free of grease and dirt will allow the razor to glide more smoothly and reduce the risk of inflammation.

For men with sensitive skin, I recommend using oil before shaving - a few drops of oil will soften the beard and create a protective film that will further improve the glide of the razor. Then use a good quality shaving foam, gel or cream (ideally for sensitive skin or with moisturising ingredients) during the shave.

Avoid cheap products with a high alcohol content, as alcohol dries out the skin and can cause burning or redness. Conversely, products containing aloe vera, glycerin, shea butter help soften beards and keep skin supple. By using quality products, you can significantly reduce the risk of redness, burning or pimples.

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How do I care for my skin after shaving?

After shaving, the skin is sensitive and deserves to be soothed and regenerated. First, rinse your face with cold water - this will close the pores, tighten the skin and wash away any residual foam or gel. Cold water will also help stop minor bleeding if you've cut yourself lightly.

Then gently pat your face dry with a clean towel. But don't rub it aggressively or scrub it - shaved skin can be easily irritated because shaving also removes the top layer of dead skin cells. Then apply a suitable aftershave. Men with tougher skin can reach for a classic aftershave, which contains alcohol and will disinfect the skin. But if you experience burning or have drier or more sensitive skin, an aftershave balm is a better choice.

I recommend balms or creams that don't contain as much alcohol, or are completely alcohol-free, and moisturize and soothe rather than aggressively disinfect. They often contain extracts of aloe vera, chamomile, panthenol or vitamin E - these ingredients will help regenerate the skin after shaving and reduce redness. Rub the balm lightly into the skin in circular motions and allow to absorb.

Is wet or dry shaving better for my skin?

The choice between wet and dry shaving depends on each man's preference, but from a skin perspective, each method has its advantages and disadvantages. Wet shaving (using water, shaving cream/soap and a razor) gives you a smoother, closer shave. The beard is softened with water and foam so it can be shaved really close to the skin, and many men also enjoy this traditional ritual because it involves gentle exfoliation and the smooth feeling lasts longer. If done correctly, wet shaving does not have to irritate the skin excessively. On the contrary, it can be very comfortable.

Dry shaving usually means using an electric shaver. An electric razor shaves without direct blade-to-skin contact, so the risk of cuts is essentially zero. Dry shaving is also much quicker, so it's preferable for a quick shave in the morning before work, for example. On the other hand, an electric razor doesn't usually shave as smoothly as a razor blade when wet shaving - it can leave a light stubble, and in some men it can cause redness due to the head rubbing against the skin. When I've seen a beard shaved with an electric razor under a microscope, it tends to tear the beard and cause it to fray. But for some men, dry shaving tends to be more tolerable if they have sensitive skin.

Michal Byrtus from Luxurious Shaving recommends using quality cosmetics
Photo: Luxusní holení/se svolením

How does the beauty kit differ for men who prefer smooth shaven skin and those who care for their beards?

For smoothly shaven skin, you can't do without a good quality shaving product - whether you prefer foam, cream or traditional shaving soap, it should always provide good razor glide and hydration. Next, an aftershave balm or lotion is a must for post-shave skin care (balm is gentler and more moisturising, while aftershave is classically disinfecting). A pre-shave oil can also come in handy to soften your beard, especially if you have a hard beard or sensitive skin.

Many men deal with ingrown beards, and this is where a scrub helps. I recommend using it once or twice a week. It will remove dead skin cells and make way for a growing beard, which helps prevent pimples. Lastly, I can't forget moisturizer, because shaving dries out the skin and regular moisturizing will help keep it healthy and supple.

Those who wear beards should wash them regularly with a shampoo or beard soap. Traditional hair shampoos are not suitable as they can dry out the beard and the skin underneath. After washing, I recommend applying beard oil. It will soften the beard, add moisture and also take care of the skin under the beard, which often suffers from dryness and itching.

Men with longer beards will appreciate a beard balm to help tame the beard, nourish it and keep it in shape. If someone grows a moustache, there are also special moustache waxes that will keep it groomed throughout the day. And of course, a beard comb or brush should be a must, as regular brushing is what helps distribute the oil or balm evenly and keeps the beard looking healthy and groomed.

What products do you recommend for men with sensitive skin?

For men with sensitive skin, a soothing, alcohol-free aftershave balm is an absolute essential. If your face often burns after shaving or red pimples form, a good quality balm can work wonders. Look for one that contains soothing ingredients like aloe vera, chamomile, hamamelis (villan) or panthenol. After shaving, gently massage the balm into the skin - it will instantly relieve burning, moisturise and promote healing of minor wounds. Unlike traditional aftershave with alcohol, it does not irritate or dry out the skin.

Do not irritate sensitive skin after shaving with an alcohol-containing product, instead reach for a soothing, alcohol-free balm
Photo: Luxusní holení/se svolením

And what to do if you get a cut?

My secret tip - and literally an old barber trick - is alum. It's a mineral called aluminium potassium sulphate that looks like a smooth salt cube. After shaving, it's moistened and rubbed over the shaved skin.

The alum instantly tightens pores and small wounds, so it stops bleeding from small cuts. It also acts antiseptically, disinfects and lightly tightens the skin, preventing irritation. It may sting a little, but only for a little while - the result is calm, pimple-free skin. After use, just rinse with water and set aside.

Our grandfathers used alum instead of aftershave and traditional barbers still use it today. It is an unobtrusive, inexpensive and yet very effective tool. So for me a must-have if you shave with a razor. Plus, alum has an added bonus - it can be used as a natural deodorant in a pinch - it reduces sweating and neutralises odour, so it won't go amiss in your bathroom.